Frequently Asked Questions
Every job size differs, but a close rule of thumb how we run our business is:
- 1 day to set fence posts, all posts are set in concrete (unless stated otherwise)
- Takes 3-4 business days for the concrete to cure and/or make the gates.
- 1 day to stretch the wire and hang the gates
- Property pins/survey stakes are the only way to know 100% where your exact property line is (see photo for what some property pins look like), we can pull a track map with footages to get an idea where they might be and the help of a metal detector often finds them if they are there or buried below.
- In the event we are unable to locate them for you, it would be in your best interest to get the property surveyed so we can ensure the fence is placed in the correct spot. If multiple neighbors have fences that all ‘line up’ then usually you would follow suit and stay inline with them, but again, property pins tell the truth.
- It's always best to pull your fence line in at least a few inches (see photo) for comfort and to avoid the neighbor conversation 'my fence-your fence' debate in the future.
- WE THE CONTRACTOR ARE NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR PROPERTY LINE LOCATIONS WITH FENCE INSTALLATIONS.
There is a possibility there are utility lines running underground or above ground (on power poles) between you and your neighbor’s property. This exact information is often found in your preliminary title report you received when purchasing the home. Sometimes the city can get you this paperwork as well. Do know it isn’t a standard property map, utility easements are only shown on a much more detailed layout like the photo below.
It is always best to place the fence outside of the said easement, leaving free access to the easement at any time. If the total easement is 20’ wide, usually, you and your neighbor would split the difference, 10’ each, so if there was property pins in the center of the easement (where the actual property boundary is) your fence should be no closer than 10’ from the property pin. Some easements are obvious, as multiple neighbors have all given in for the easement with their fence and it’s easy to follow suit. Sometimes people do not leave these dedicated easements open for public access and will just allow the utility workers to enter their yard to have access to the utility lines if need be. This, however, can be a headache for all parties involved and should be avoided at all costs and often illegal if it does in fact show a dedicated easement on your title report.
You will need a permit if you are in the City of Victorville or the City of Adelanto for any new fencing projects. You do NOT need a permit IF you are in Hesperia, Apple Valley, Oak Hills, Phelan, Pinon Hills, Wrightwood or Lucerne Valley for chain link, privacy chain link, or ranch style vinyl fence; however you still have to abide by the city or county's ordinance regarding fence heights and property set backs. The customer is responsible to obtain a permit if one is required; here is how to do so:
- Get a written estimate from us with a detailed drawing of, type of fence, height of fence, and fence layout in regards of house and street.
- Take our written estimate to the 'building and safety' department at city hall.
- Pay the cities fee to obtain a permit for the proposed work.
- Schedule to have the fence installed by us.
- Once fence is complete get with building and safety to schedule a final inspection of the fence for them to sign off on the permit.
NOTE: You can only obtain a permit and get a signed final inspection if the fence meets the citiy or county's current fence ordinance.
NOTE: City of Victorville amended their front yard chain link code in Feb. 2015, lots under 1/2 acre in select areas are NOT allowded to have chain link in the front yard regardless of height. Zoning that you are allowded to have chain link in the front yard is R-1B 1/2 (1/2 acre or more of land). You also are NOT allowded to fence in bare land on residential property in the City of Victorville.
How tall can my fence be?
Every city/county has different rules/codes, so it is always best to check with your city or county to know for sure. Most cities in the Hi Desert allow for 4’ max height in front and 6’ max height in rear of house. San Bernardino County allows for 4’ max height in front and 6’ max height in rear of house, EXCEPT in "RC" (resource conservation) and "RL" (rural living) land use zoning where you can go as tall as 5' tall in the front yard . Many homes do have taller fences in the front yard than allowed by code, but it is always the responsibility of the homeowner if a problem occurs.
NOTE: The Town of Apple Valley has adopted a new ordinance that states any home built after June of 2007 in zones R-SF and R-EQ can NOT have any chain link fence in the front or front street side yards. Click "Apple Valley fence height" links below to read more if this pertains to you. Check the APPLE VALLEY ZONING MAP to see which zone you fall in, remember the new ordinance is only for homes built AFTER June of 2007, yes I know, this seems very impractical as thousands of homes already have front yard chain link and your neighbors house that was built in 2006 can have something your new home can't; very unfortunate.
NOTE: City of Victorville amended their front yard chain link code in Feb. 2015, lots under 1/2 acre in select areas are NOT allowded to have chain link in the front yard regardless of height. Zoning that you are allowded to have chain link in the front yard is R-1B 1/2 (1/2 acre or more of land). You also are NOT allowded to fence in bare land on residential property in the City of Victorville. CITY OF VICTORVILLE ZOING MAP
For your convenience click links below for local city info:
Most pool codes state a minimum of 5' tall 'non-climb' fence with self closing and self latching gates that are no wider than 48" in width and only open away from the pool. Our current fences that CAN meet this requirement are:
- 1 1/4" chain link (this is small diamond chain link, standard diamond chain link is 2 1/4")
- Privacy chain link
For your convienence click the links below for local city info. Always check with your city to verify the exact code.
- We do clear brush from fence lines that we will be installing fence on, this is additonal cost as it takes more time and equipment. As for grading, we can smooth out sharp grade changes for a smoother end look, BUT we are limited on the amount of dirt we are able to move so this all depends on the severity of the current grade. Actual grading determind at the time of the estimate and we will NOT guarantee a perfectly flat or level grade.
- We do NOT haul any of the bushes/brush/trees away; even on thick brush yards, the brush we clear doesn't amount to much once ran over and flattened by the tractor. All brush/dirt is left along side the fence line.
- Your salesmen came out and gave me an estimate but I’d rather save money and do it myself, can I buy the material from you?
- OF COURSE, we will sell you anything you need, and often times give discounts for entire order, (ie: fabric/posts/top rail/fittings).
- We do not install any gate operators, however, we do work with a few licensed contractors and electrians who can quote and install gate operators for you. We can setup your rolling gate so it is 'ready for an operator' at the time of the fence installation and can then be easily hooked up to an operator at a later time. Things that are a must with a gate operator are; concrete strip under the gate, angle iron bolted to the concrete strip (via concreate anchors), v-groove wheel assembly (welded into the gate), and boxed tail (weleded on the end of the gate) that would give added length to surpass the operator when it gets mounted to the ground for chain hookup. Price would increase depending on what the customer already has and how many added upgrades they want on their gate. Give us a call and we would be more than happy to refer you to a few of the companies that handle gate operators specifically.
An operator can be installed to your rolling gate if: your gate is equipped with the proper items needed (v-groove wheel assembly & a boxed tail-for added gate length, as well as a concrete strip for the gate to roll on for angle iron to attach to). Most of the time gates aren’t setup for an operator, in which case we would have to modify your gate and depending on the condition your gate is in; possibly make you a completely new roll gate.
This all depends on the ground and how much or little gap is acceptable under the fence.
- If the ground is flat or the grade is consistent, then the fence should be flat or straight.
- If the ground has dips or humps the top of the fence must mirror the bottom.
All material and products we sell and install have been galvanized to avoid ANY rust or maintenance.
There are two kinds of ways to galvanize chain link:
- After it’s woven (GAW)
- Before it’s woven (GBW)
- 5 year on material (excludes gate hardware).
- 1 year on our workmanship/installations.
- Our vinyl fence is made from high quality virgin vinyl raw materials and has UV inhibitors to help prevent fading. It is a very good and durable product but will show wear and marks upon normal wear and tear and certain abuse:
- Like all plastic/vinyl, it will slightly discolor (usually only noticed when comparted to brand new side by side) and get brittle over years in the sun.
- Sprinklers spraying water on it (can make it dull and blotchy looking)
- Grass trimmings getting thrown at it (weed wacker; will make it dull and blotchy with a green tint)
- Any objects gitting or getting thrown at the fence (can mark and break/crack the fence)
- If proper care is taken our vinyl fence will last for years.
5 year on material
1 year on our workmanship/installations.Exclusions: Vandalism, disaster type weather, wind damage, snow damage, water damage, flash floods (washes), animal or vehicular damage, any vinyl coated or powder coated material, and normal wear and tear.Warranty subject to change without notice:
- We don’t incorporate any ranch style gates into our fences, this is something we experimented with in the past and never worked out well (see photo 2).
- The vinyl plastic itself is nowhere near strong enough to hold itself up so you are forced to incorporate steel frame work on the backside or inside, thus making the appearance of the gate unacceptable and still rather flimsy.
- We can incorporate chain link gates in the opening for the ranch style fencing (see photo 2).
We can attach mesh to the backside of the fence to keep animals in or out; however we still only offer chain link type gates in conjunction with ranch style vinyl.
- Yes, HOWEVER, additional post should be set in between existing post for added strength due to the wind.
- We recommend using 2 3/8" diameter, 16ga thickness for the additional posts.
- Many people make the mistake of slating a fence that was not intended to withstand wind load.
- NOTE: The slats that fit in standard chain link are NOT the same slats found in Privacy chain link, nor do you get the same privacy coverage as 'privacy chain link', see photo above for comparison. Privacy chain link slats come premanufactured with the slats already in the rolls of mesh and the slats wouldn't fit in standard chain link due to the width.
We never recommend this because not only is the privacy chain link thicker gauge wire which is heavier, the slats are laced so tightly minimal wind can pass through, so extreme strength should be taken into consideration on not only the posts (5'&6' Tall= min. 2 3/8 16ga. 6’ on center, 4' Tall= min. 2 3/8 16ga. 8' on center) but larger top rail (1 5/8 16ga.) and steel ties are needed, which usually leaves nothing to be reused.
We do NOT, strictly because the wind load is far too violent with the way roll gates attach to the fence, via: two steel wheels are the only thing holding a roll gate in place to the fence itself. We don’t want to install something you simply can not use safely in windy conditions.
- Yes, 99.9% of jobs the posts are cemented in the ground.
- Dirt setting the posts is only for temporary jobs where the customer wants the cost as low as possible.
- If we need to set a post in your concrete, for whatever reason, we can core drill (see photo above) a hole through the concrete and set our post inside it (via: smooth quick setting cement). OR, we can use a post that has a base plate welded to the bottom of it and use concrete sleeve anchors to bolt it down to your concrete, this method is nice if in the future you want to remove the post you’re only left with 4 small bolts that can be hammered down flush.
- Core drilling is usually the best way to go as it leaves the cleanest finished look, as long as you want the post there permanently.
- No, you can if you’d like, however with our insurance, we the contractor, must call in your address for line location, whether you do or not, we still will.
- There can be ground marking paint, multiple flags and/or whisker tassels placed in the ground to represent the underground utilities, please don’t pull them out as they are crucial when we dig our post holes.
- There is no way of us knowing what time the utility markings will get done, if you have dogs or locked gates, then they will get a hold of you, prior to us starting, to setup a time to meet you.
Ideally you want your gate openings as level as possible for ease of use, however, we can build a gate with the correct amount of ‘hill side’ in it to match the slope of the ground, this would make the gate shape a ‘parallelogram’.